Nestled in the second largest continent, lies staggering talent that has gone unnoticed for far too long. There are so many creative forces in Africa that are slowly emerging and changing the fashion game not only in their region but globally. Between political and cultural story telling, and unique African textile traditions, African fashion is transcending its traditional ceremonial regime. New designers are emerging on the radar of many luxury fashion houses, especially in Paris and New York. With a movement that is honouring sustainability and high quality over fast fashion, African Luxury Design might just be the next big thing in the fashion industry. 

Sarah Diouf for Tongoro

At just thirty-two, South African Fashion Designer Thebe Magugu has dug his nails into the luxury fashion industry. With a specialty in ready-to-wear collections while simultaneously exploring parallel concepts through multidisciplinary capsule projects, he has found a way to practice cultural honour and invoke timeless aesthetics into their designs.

The South African fashion house has already been noticed by Vogue and is gaining traction and engagement with a wider population of fashion lovers around the world. As part of Vogue’s Dress-Swap initiative, Magugu was tasked with working alongside Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, to reimagine the gown that Actress Tracee Ellis Ross wore to the 2018 Emmys. Magugu intertwined his knowledge of shape, colour and emphasis while combining his South African roots to completely reimagine the Valentino gown.

The Valentino Haute Couture  gown was repurposed into a parka and blouse by Thebe Magugu with a Thebe Magugu x Valentino Mash-Up Logo hat. Ultimately “Frankenstiening” the garment, Magugu described the process as being his “way of working—to translate this really special piece into something that a lot of people could wear and see themselves in.” Combining Thebe Magugu x Valentino     Tracee Ellis Ross at the 2018 Emmy   African couture and meshing it with Italian blueprints is the recipe for how Thebe Magugu is stepping into the spotlight and gaining recognition by Luxury Fashion Houses far and wide. 

If Beyonce can recognize greatness in a luxury fashion brand, then that means you're doing something right. Senegalese designer Sarah Diouf has been emerging into the luxury fashion space since 2016 with the rise of her brand Tongoro. Keeping their focus on playfulness while also maintaining their luxury clientele, Tongoro has gained international prestige with celebrities like Beyonce, Naomi Campbell, Iman, and Alicia Keys being among the many to wear the Senegalese based clothing. Diouf’s empire has been listed among the Fast Company’s 50 Most Innovative Companies for 2020, and has established an easily recognizable silhouette.

When thinking of African Luxury Fashion, typically what comes to mind is an attention to bold colours. Diouf takes a completely different approach with her designs, focusing on black and white, Tongoro brings to life legendary 1960’s African photographs, which serves as a major source of inspiration.The use of a black and white palette that has become identifiably connected to the brand, and  Diouf explains how “ these monochromatic portraits bolster an African aesthetic due to their classic feel that stands the test of time.” 

As African fashion continues to break through into mainstream media and the global luxury fashion industry, more designers will gain the recognition that is well deserved. Western media has dominated the global fashion space for years, with many designers needing to break out into the American market in order to achieve a modicum of fame. Many African designers have been acknowledged by European fashion houses, direct collaborations like Thebe Magugu x Louis Vuitton, pushing boundaries in the worldwide appreciation of African Luxury Fashion, and the talented and dedicated designers behind the scenes who are working towards their life's goals.