runway

Why Private Fashion Week Appointments Matter More Than Runway Shows

written by luc cormier

Private shopping appointments are the real climax of Fashion Weeks. As VICs (Very Important Clients) show up in private to look over the newest pieces, they are the true decision makers. Does this collection sink or swim? Is the designer creating truly desirable clothes? Is the treatment during the appointment truly luxurious?
Brands are gradually investing more in VICs, which has created even further restrictions on private access. Posting a Chanel Couture fitting on TikTok undermines the exclusivity brands fight so hard to maintain. Younger VICs may continue to do so regardless; at the end of the day, they have the money. 

VIC Lisa Sher-Chambers attends a Schiaparelli event hosted by Bergdorf Goodman in New York

Sansho Scott /BFA.com

The VIC is the life source of the industry, providing almost half of any brand’s revenue as of a 2024 study conducted by Business of Fashion. The demographic accounts for only 2% of luxury consumers. Losing one client can create a ripple effect, resulting in losses worth millions. This means that VICs are extremely powerful within the industry, despite a lack of fame (for the most part). Brands must create unique, private experiences to keep VICs interested and compelled to remain loyal. 

These private shopping experiences are extremely extravagant but go beyond delicious food and expensive champagne. VICs are paying for exclusive access to brands and everything that entails. Dinners with creative directors, show invites, shopping trips. The goal is to create a magical experience. 

Couture labels like Chanel have specialized teams that work with VICs to create bespoke clothing and experiences for the most profitable VICs. The draw is in the exclusivity. Intimacy is the ultimate currency. Sales Associates must give VICs the best possible shopping experience. Remembering small details about each client’s preferences for silk or cashmere, yellow gold or white gold. The way these clients choose to spend their money determines what gets expanded upon within the atelier for future collections and what gets simplified for the laity. The days of cultural makers holding the power have changed. 


VIC Lauren Sachs attends Vogue World in June 2024

Astra Marina /BFA.com

Not all VICs are created equal; greater loyalty results in better treatment, and more exclusive access to textiles, customization and couture.

In the past two years, the major shifts in the creative director position at LVMH were due in part to client dissatisfaction. A change was needed to keep the attention of the industry's biggest spenders. 

VICs are known to use private shoppers as well, who are the front line in the shopping experience. A private shopper maintains relationships with brands, attends re-sees, and curates what their clients might like to purchase from those brands. Most private shopping occurs before pieces hit stores. The private shopper is the bridge between new arrivals and those who are purchasing them. It is a private shopper’s job to ensure the money is spent.

VIC Lauren Sachs attends a dinner at Laperouse celebrating Andre Leon Talley in January 2023

David Ctorza /BFA.com

In 2024, The Cut did an amazing article that covered VIC Laura Sachs’ Chanel Couture Show experience. She stayed at the Ritz, where Chanel had surprised her with a bouquet of flowers in her suite.  Crucially, she is a member of the Vogue 100, which is an invite-only society of fashion enthusiasts (likely all multi-label VICs). They put on events that simulate the lifestyle of fashion professionals. 


AT VOGUEWORLD: PARIS EVA LONGORIA HOSTS A PRE-SHOW CASA DEL SOL COCKTAIL PARTY WITH VOGUE100

VICs attend Vogue World’s preshow cocktail party in June, 2024

Hippolyte Petit / BFA.com

The goal is to make VICs feel like celebrities, and this bold transactional nature seems to be offending no one. Everyone involved in the transaction wins in the end.

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