Loro Piana has become increasingly discussed within the zeitgeist as an iconic influence on ‘quiet luxury.’ The brand’s signature cashmere sweaters and wool suits are made from start to finish in Italy and are often seen on billionaires.  The clothes are elegant but unremarkable until you touch them.

The brand began in the 19th century as a family affair, primarily functioning as luxury fabric merchants. The company only picked up steam after the Second World War and quickly became more respected, supplying its textiles to labels such as Yves Saint Laurent. The label expanded into producing its own luxury goods in the 1970s under the helm of Pier Luigi and Sergio Piana. Prior to the brothers taking over, the company’s label could rarely be found within a bespoke suit. They sourced cashmere from baby Mongolian Capra hircus goats, and fibres from the vicuña, which is like a llama or alpaca. The company eventually bought a Peruvian nature reserve dedicated to preserving vicuña. 

In 2013, LVMH acquired an 80% stake in the label for two billion euros. Antoine Arnault (Bernard Arnault’s son) took over as chairman, pushing Pier Luigi and Sergio into vice-president roles. After Sergio’s death that same year, Pier Luigi was left as the primary steward for the brand’s relationships with the luxury fabric merchants of Italy. 

Loro Piana exists outside of trends (despite its recent presence in quiet luxury conversations), focusing more on quality and providing those who can afford its prices with masterfully crafted clothing. Damian Bertrand said of Loro Piana, “…if quiet means quiet, I don’t believe it’s the right word for us. The brand was successful decades ago, when nobody was using the term quiet luxury, and will continue to be for decades to come.” This speaks to the brand’s lack of care for publicity and belief that its merit is enough, which is accurate. 

Mario Sorrenti / Loro Piana

Loro Piana’s clientele shifted significantly after a character from Succession wore a black cashmere baseball hat. However, there is a distinct divide between new and old clients. Clients who worship the rubber-soled Open Walk shoes differ from those who understand the history of the brand’s cashmere and vicuña work. Notable shoe clients include Fear of God designer Jerry Lorenzo and Bill Clinton. The shoes come in various “Walk” styles. Including “Weekend,” which sells for approximately $1,500. The “410 LP Walk” sells for 2030 dollars. The most expensive shoe is the “Gift of Kings,” which sells for $3,200 and is made from 100% Virgin Wool.

Kendall Roy wearing a Loro Piana cashmere baseball hat on Succession, created by Jesse Armstrong

Loropiana.com

410 LP Walk The Gift of Kings Sneaker retails for $3180

The cashmere is where the magic really happens. Teo van den Broeke says of his gifted piece, “I was lucky enough to be gifted a baby cashmere sweater by the brand several years ago and it’s maintained its shape, lustre and handle beautifully. It probably helps that I keep it in the freezer year round, for fear of moths, but I’m an anomaly in that regard.” When pieces are so luxurious, it makes maintenance an active, careful and sometimes seemingly ridiculous process.

A Baby Cashmere sweater can retail from approximately $2500 to $4000.  The “Classic Turtleneck” is crafted exclusively from the underfleece of Hircus goat kids and retails for $2590. Loro provides an extensive care process on the website involving handwashing, Loro Piana Cashmere Soap, steam ironing, and storing with Loro Piana cedar balls to repel moths.

Loropiana.com

Classic Turtle Neck retails for $2590

The brand’s dedication throughout history to crafting beyond trends and marketing is admirable and crucial to an industry built on publicity. Loro Piana’s ability to survive for 100 years without depending on intense marketing speaks to its position as ultimate luxury. Loro Piana lets the softness of their cashmere do all the talking.