runway

Iris van Herpen Continues to Redefine Couture

written by mariana lora

Iris van Herpen continues to offer a sneak peek of the future. The Dutch designer has built her reputation by blending fashion with science, engineering art that challenge traditional ideas of what couture can be. Her Fall 2026 haute couture collection, Sonic Starquakes, reinforced that vision, presenting pieces inspired by astrophysics, plasma and the invisible forces that shape the universe.

The collection explored the phenomenon of starquakes, vibrations that travel through stars as pressure waves move beneath their surfaces. Van Herpen translated these scientific concepts into couture through sculptural silhouettes that appeared to ripple, float and transform as models walked the runway. According to Vogue, the collection featured what is believed to be the first use of plasma in haute couture, the fourth state of matter, demonstrating the designer's determination to push fashion into unexplored territory. 


Image by WWD

Throughout her career she has collaborated with architects, physicists, engineers and digital artists to develop materials and construction techniques that would be impossible through conventional methods alone. Three dimensional printing, laser cutting and experimental textiles have become signatures of her work, yet each innovation remains rooted in the hand craftsmanship that defines haute couture. Every garment is meticulously assembled by artisans, balancing advanced technology with traditional techniques. (Iris van Herpen)


Image by Launchmetrics Spotlight for The Impression

This balance between tradition and evolution is what separates Van Herpen from many designers experimenting with technology. Women's Wear Daily described Sonic Starquakes as a collection built from materials that science itself is still working to understand, while remaining unmistakably couture through its extraordinary level of detail and construction. 


Image by The New York Times

Van Herpen creates pieces that function as artistic statements while remaining wearable on the human body. Museums around the world have recognized this approach. Her creations have been exhibited at institutions including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Victoria and Albert Museum and, most recently, the Brooklyn Museum, where Sculpting the Senses opened in 2026. The exhibition presents more than 140 couture pieces alongside works of contemporary art, natural history and scientific objects, highlighting the connections between fashion, technology and the natural world. (photobookmagazine.com)

As haute couture continues to evolve, Iris van Herpen remains one of its most original voices. By combining scientific discovery with exceptional craftsmanship, she has transformed couture into a platform where technology, artistry and imagination coexist. Her collections demonstrate that fashion can inspire the same sense of wonder as art, architecture and scientific exploration, while expanding the possibilities of what can be created by hand.



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