fashion

African Luxury Fashion’s Growing Presence At Global Fashion Weeks

written by eliia romeiro-lourenco

Polka dots, butter yellow, baby blue and mixing metals. These are a few of the trends that are dominating the fashion space in 2026. But what about the trends dominating the runways? African luxury fashion has had an increasing presence at global fashion weeks this year, and the big question is why now? From South African designer Thebe Magugu, winner of the LVMH prize, and Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi who has been featured on the Paris Haute Couture week calendar. These artisan visionaries use techniques that span centuries, and in doing so the African luxury fashion industry is finally getting the global recognition that it deserves.

Thebe Magugu, a South African born fashion designer has made headlines in the industry over the past couple years. In 2019 Magugu won the LVMH Young Fashion Designer prize, and was a finalist for the 2021 International Woolmark Prize. His designs are centered around the feminine body, with a specialty in women's ready-to-wear, Magugu has a unique take on taking the female form and altering it to be even more extraordinary. Through his use of traditional African prints that draw from his homeland’s historical past, Magugu intertwines their “complex present and exciting imagined futures, providing smart, multifaceted clothes that mirror the inspiring qualities of the people they are made for.” (Via Thebe Magugu’s Website Biography).

Thebe Magugu  

 His status and talent rising in the fashion industry naturally brings celebrity recognition. Supermodel Naomi Campbell is among one of the many to acknowledge Thebe Magugu’s work and has praised the South African designer many times in the press. When asked about his work, Campbell told British Publication i-D Magazine “Then there’s Thebe Magugu from South Africa, who’s transcending

 Naomi Campbell in TM for Vogue Arabia, Kylie Jenner in Thebe Magugu     fashion entirely. His new space in Johannesburg is revolutionary - part store, part cultural hub, spotlighting other creatives through exhibitions and panels,”. Kylie Jenner has also been seen in Magugu’s designs.


 Naomi Campbell in TM for Vogue Arabia, Kylie Jenner in Thebe Magugu 

As important as it is for a designer to break into a major space in the fashion industry, their intentions are also observed. Thebe Magugu announced their partnership with rock band U2’s Bono’s nonprofit RED called “The Custom Heirloom Ensemble”. Originally launched in 2023 with Michelle Obama and Lupita Nyong’o among the first to wear the pieces produced, both women wore garments that immortalized their loved ones in the clothing. His proceeds from this collection with RED have gone to a nonprofit that aims to fight AIDS. Using his platform for uplifting African Designers, and bringing awareness to organizations that are fighting reputable causes are some of the ways that Thebe Magugu has captured the attention of mainstream fashion media and celebrity icons. 

Thebe Magugu x RED Fashion Show


Imane Ayissi has been a pioneer of African fashion. His dedication to design began in his early childhood in Cameroon where he crafted his first designs for his mother. Launching his professional career in 1992 with annual collections aided in the achievement of presenting his designs at the Nuit des Créateurs at the Palace in Paris in 1996. Ayissi has been dressing celebrities for all kinds of events for close to two-decades however it was only in January of 2020 that he was invited to show his S/S 2020 collection as a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture where the international press took notice of his creations.

Imane Ayissi                                  

Although he is somewhat of a veteran of the fashion industry, to this day his collections are still being showcased at fashion weeks all over the world. His 2026 Spring/Summer collection titled “Bissakarak” included many references to African Fashion traditions including the kente cloth of Ghana, the raffia of Madagascar, the woven and the loincloths in Nigeria, tell a story through textiles of ever-renewed metamorphoses. In Ewondo, one of the many languages spoken in Cameroon as well as the mother tongue of Imane Ayissi, the word Bissakarak means “scribble” and “first draft”, this phrase helps Ayissi in his  design process as he has stated that he "loves nothing more than this fragile yet exhilarating in-between stage of the creative process. The search for a silhouette, then volumes, discovering how fabrics move and come alive on the body.” His design aesthetic has been integrated into the luxury fashion and beauty industries, with his dresses serving as the backdrop for Swarovski jewelry at the Carrousel du Louvre. He has also been a featured designer for major hair shows like Claude Maxime, Vog Coiffure Paris, and the Mondial Coiffure at the Palais des Congrès. His designs have been worn by various celebrities among the likes of Zendaya, Angela Bassett and singer Angelique Kidjo for her 40 years of music concert at Royal Albert Hall. Similarly to Magugu, Ayissi also uses his acclaimed fashion fame to promote humanitarian causes, including a fashion show for a LICRA gala that benefited the children of the Congo.  

Imane Ayissi’s S/S 2026 Collection,                    


Zendaya and Angelique Kidjo in Imane Ayissi         

These breakout designers are showing the next generation of designers in Africa and around the world that it is possible to achieve your goals so long as you put in the hard work and dedication. They have aided in bringing African Luxury global fashion into a place where it can be fully recognized for its importance, deep history, and stellar craftsmanship. 




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